Rabbit Care Information
All my rabbits will leave for their new home with a care booklet that includes useful information about your new rabbit. I have decided to include this same information on my website for anyone who wishes to research the information before they bring their new rabbit home
Rabbit care sheet
My mini lops are friendly as they have been handled from birth and like to be cuddled,
However it is quite a stressful time for a kit when they move to a new home so try not to handle him/her too much for the first 48 hours, Do make sure that you keep a close watch though to make sure your new bunny is eating and drinking and settling in okay.
Please note;
Although I am very confident of the sex of my rabbits when they are ready to go to new homes, I cannot guarantee the sex 100% as occasionally bucks can be known to have quite a rare condition known as a "split penis" (an abnormality caused by the incomplete closure of the penile shaft) and are often sexed as does early in life which explains the common mistakes in sexing correctly. "
I have compiled some information below that I hope you will find useful and refer back to if needed.
Rabbit feed
My bunnies are fed on Allen and Paige Breeder and Grower pellets. I will supply you with two weeks worth of food and it is important that you continue to feed this for the first 7-10 days. I recommend to switch to feeding Burgess excel junior as it is one of the best rabbit pellet food you can buy and it is also widely available from pet stores. Although admittedly, not the cheapest, in my opinion it's well worth the expense as feeding a good diet is crucial to a rabbits health and well being and ensuring a good diet will be apparent in the overall appearance of the rabbit.
The amount of food to give your rabbit is approx 2 ounces once a day per rabbit.
If you do decide to wean onto a different brand of food after the initial 7-10 days please purchase a good quality pellet food opposed to a coloured mix. Rabbit pellet food is much more nutritious than a mix) Start weaning onto the new food by mixing a small amount of the new food ( 1 teaspoon) with the old food and slowly increase the amount over the next 7 -10 days until gradually you are feeding completely the new food.
Always supply fresh hay and water.
I also feed my rabbits fresh vegetables but not until they are at approx 16 weeks old. Always introduce vegetables slowly. If they are not used to them it can make them quite ill.
Rabbits can eat a variety of fresh veg, including but not limited to; broccoli, carrots, cabbage, kale, tomatoes, celery. And also fruits such as apple, banana's and pears.
NEVER feed your rabbit lettuce. It can make them very ill.
Do not let young rabbits onto the grass, they cannot cope with it and it can cause bloat, a nasty condition that can cause a build up of stomach gases and can prove fatal if not caught in time. Slowly introduce rabbits to the grass at approx 14 -16 weeks of age. I recommend giving them 5 minutes first time and if after 24 hours there are no adverse affects gradually increase the period of time.
It is important not to over feed your rabbit as this can cause diarrhea which is a serious condition in a rabbit.
vaccinations
It is highly recommended that your rabbits are vaccinated against the following diseases;
Myxomatosis
Rabbits can be vaccinated against Myxomatosis from 8 weeks of age but I recommend letting the rabbit settle into their new home for a week or so before vaccinations as a move to a new home is stressful enough as it is.
Rabbits should not be vaccinated while pregnant or ill. After the first vaccination regular boosters are required. Boosters are given either every 12 months or every 6 months, depending on the risk in your local area.
Vaccination does not guarantee that a rabbit will not contract myxomatosis, there is still a small risk. Vaccinated rabbits contracting myxomatosis also have a greater chance of recovery.
Prevention - Insects
As insects are the main way myxomatosis spreads controlling them is an important way to minimise the risk of infection. It is important to treat other household pets such as cats and dogs for fleas. If you have an outbreak of fleas it will also be necessary to treat the house and carpets. Treatment for mites and lice can be recommended by your vets. Hutches and other living accommodation can be cleaned with anti-mite disinfectants designed specifically for use on animal cages. Hanging sticky fly paper (out of reach of rabbits teeth) can help control fleas and flies. Electronic fly traps can be used inside. Its important not to use fly sprays around your rabbit or other pets.
VHD Viral Haemorrhagic disease
Viral Haemorrhagic Disease (VHD) is a more recent disease that Myxomatosis, it was first reported in the UK in only 1992. It is spread through direct contact between rabbits and also through contaminated surfaces such as bedding, hutches and clothing. This means both indoor and outdoor rabbits are at risk.
It can survive for 3 months at room temperature. The incubation period is 1-3 days and death usually occurs 12-36 hours after the onset of fever
Vaccination is very successful, it can be done from 12-14 weeks of age. The vaccination is also safe for pregnant rabbits. A booster needs to be given ever 12 months to ensure continued protection.
Vaccination against Myxomatosis must not be done within 2 weeks of vaccination against VHD.
Spay / Neuter
Why spay and neuter rabbits?
Altered rabbits are healthier and live longer than unaltered rabbits. The risk of reproductive cancers (ovarian, uterine, mammarian) for an unspayed female rabbit is virtually eliminated by spaying your female rabbit. Your neutered male rabbit will live longer as well, given that he won't be tempted to fight with other animals (rabbits, cats, etc.) due to his sexual aggression.
Altered rabbits make better companions. They are calmer, more loving, and dependable once the undeniable urge to mate has been removed. In addition, rabbits are less prone to destructive (chewing, digging) and aggressive (biting, lunging, circling, growling) behaviour after surgery.
Avoidance of obnoxious behaviour. Unneutered male rabbits sometimes may spray, and both males and females are much easier to litter train, and much more reliably trained, after they have been altered.
Altered rabbits can safely have a friend to play with. Rabbits are social animals and enjoy the company of other rabbits. Having your rabbit altered would allow them the opportunity to share their life with a friend.
Spaying and neutering for rabbits has become a safe procedure when performed by experienced rabbit veterinarians. A knowledgeable rabbit veterinarian can spay or neuter your rabbit with very little risk to a healthy rabbit. Don't allow a veterinarian with little or no experience with rabbits to spay or neuter your rabbit.
Is surgery safe on rabbits?
Surgery can be as safe on rabbits as on any animal. Unfortunately, the vast majority of veterinarians aren't experienced with safe rabbit surgery techniques. Don't allow a veterinarian with little or no experience with rabbits spay or neuter your rabbit. Using isofluorene as the anesthetic and appropriate surgical and after-surgery techniques, spaying and neutering of rabbits is as safe as for any other animal.
At what age should rabbits be spayed or neutered?
Females can be spayed as soon as they sexually mature, usually around 4 months of age, but many veterinarians prefer to wait until they are 6 months old, as surgery is riskier on a younger rabbit.
Males can be neutered as soon as the testicles descend, usually around 3-1/2 months of age, but many veterinarians prefer to wait until they are 5 months old. Personally, I think 4 - 5 months is a suitable age.
If you are considering buying two rabbits a buck (male) and a doe (female) is usually the best combination and will almost, always live happily together. You would need to have the buck neutered around 4 -5 months of age to prevent unwanted breeding and it is also a good idea to keep both rabbits separate up to a month after the operation as there is a small chance the buck can still be fertile for a short period of time after the procedure. It is not absoloutely neccessary to also have the female spayed but it is worth considering for the associated health benefits.
Two does are another possible combination, and will usually get along if reared together from a young age (especially litter mates!) However, sometimes when does reach sexual maturity approximately 6 months they can sometimes get a little bit hormonal and can get "fed up" with each
other and start to fight. if this happened you would need to have both females spayed.
Two bucks are not recommended as they fight and try to exert dominance over each other when they reach maturity. Even when neutered it is not guaranteed that two bucks will get on together.
Rabbit care;
It is a good idea to regularly check your rabbit for signs of ill health. This could be when you settle them in your lap to groom them. Check the ears for mites. I routinely use ivermectin flea drops on my rabbits from 6 weeks of age it is a good idea that you get into the habit of doing this even if there is no evidence of fleas as prevention is better than cure.
Dogs and cats can transmit fleas to your rabbit and also if you purchase fresh farm hay this can also harbour mites. Regular flea treatment every six months will prevent this from becoming a problem.
Also, rabbits nails can grow very long if left unattended and can cause accidental injury to themselves or the owner. Your rabbit will need their nails clipping regularly to prevent injury. It is a good idea to have your vet show you how to do this before you try it yourself for the first time.
It also very important that you regularly check your rabbits bottom for any signs of loose stools, If you see any make sure that you gently clean the area or trim the
area with a pair of scissors. It is important to keep the bottom clean to prevent fly strike.
It is a good idea especially when bringing a new rabbit home for the first time to add probiotic to the drinking water as this settles their stomach, some bunnies find the move to a new home quite stressful and the probiotic will help prevent loose stools. Probiotic is also very useful if your rabbit is ever unwell and unwilling to eat or drink. Rabbits need to continually graze and can deteriorate really quickly if they do not eat for even a few hours. A syringe full of probiotic can stop your rabbit from dehydrating.
I do hope that you have found the care information useful and will refer back to it if needed, Please do not hesitate to contact me if you have any questions.
I would love to know how they are getting on in their new home and really appreciate updates and any pictures you are able to send me!
Please remember, owning a rabbit is a big commitment they can live up to 10 years. Please think carefully before deciding to adopt a rabbit as a pet as they do require regular care, love and attention. If you ever find that you are no longer able to take care of your rabbit please contact me as I may be able to take the rabbit back into my care, or if not might know someone who can.
